Colombia's Shores to Peaks
Colombia · Sep 22, 2023
A 2,691 kilometre traverse of Colombia by bike, from the Caribbean heat of Cartagena to the edge of the Amazon in Putumayo. It links chaotic coastal cities, the dusty hills of Montes de MarĂa, long gravel along the Magdalena River, the otherworldly Tatacoa Desert, and a climb into the Andean coffee country around San AgustĂn. Expect heat, humidity, river ferries, and some of the warmest hospitality anywhere.
Shores to Peaks is a 2,691 kilometre journey across Colombia, running from the Caribbean coast at Cartagena to the Amazonian lowlands of Putumayo on the Ecuadorian border. It is a route of contrasts rather than constant difficulty: long stretches of fast gravel and quiet dirt road, broken up by chaotic city exits, river crossings by canoe, and a serious climb into the Andes. The riding is rarely technical, but it is long, hot, and remote, and that is the real challenge.
Pablo GarcĂa and Isabelle rode this stretch as part of a much longer journey from Mexico's Mayan jungle to the Amazon. Read their full story here.
Out of Cartagena you trade the asphalt for the dust of the Montes de MarĂa, a range of undulating hills and deep valleys about 100 kilometres inland. It is arid, historic country, and the towns here are full of stories and warm welcomes. Carry plenty of water and expect the heat to dictate your pace.
The route's spine is the Magdalena, Colombia's largest river. You follow flawless gravel along its banks and cross it more than once on the small farm boats the locals call milkman's boats, loading your bike aboard at dawn. Swamps full of exotic birds line the way, and historic river towns like Mompox break up the days. It is flat, fast, and relentlessly hot, so ride early and rest through the worst of the sun.
South of the river the land dries out into cactus and the red earth of the Tatacoa Desert around Villavieja, a strange and beautiful detour. From there the route climbs into the Andean coffee region, where the air finally cools and the ancient site of San AgustĂn marks the gateway toward Putumayo and the Amazon. The climbing here is the biggest of the trip, so save your legs for it.
Two things shape this ride. Heat and humidity are constant in the lowlands, so start at dawn, carry more water than you think, and plan around the dry season. And the hospitality is extraordinary: in town after town you will be invited to stay, eat, and talk, and those encounters are the heart of the route. Colombia is far safer for travellers than its reputation suggests, but stay informed and ride with local advice. Bring a capable loaded touring or gravel setup, gearing low enough for the Andes, and tires that shrug off long days of gravel and dirt.
